Day 53 and 54

Day 53

Today we got up and had a leisurely breakfast. Abdul joined us for a chat and then asked what we wanted to do today. We decided to do the walk down to Mambo Caves with Joseph.

We left at 10 and took 4 of the dogs with us, Banana, Norak, Were and Wotek. These dogs belong to Dagmara who now manages the lodge with Ally. She comes from Lithuania so I think most of the names come from there.

The walk is pretty much downhill all the way to the caves, and therefore uphill all the way back.

When we started the lodge and the village were pretty much still in the clouds. To start with we walk through the outskirts of the village and then through some agricultural land.

One of the dogs, Norak, had her jaw broken when she was a puppy, before Dagmara rescued her, but she is actually the most active.

As always Joseph points out various plants as we walk, including a large cactus. 

After about half an hour we stop at a place where we get some good views down the valley and across to Mtae village. The black clouds in the distance should have been a warning for later.

The path continues on down the cliff. Banana, the biggest dog finds in hard going at times!!

Further on we get to a “hanging rock” and again stop for a rest and some photos.

Soon after this we reach the caves. These caves were formed over a million years ago during an earthquake. In ancient times the Usamba people used to live in them and then more recently during wars people have hidden inside them.

It is a bit of a squeeze to get into the caves and in some places the rocks are quite low so you have to crouch to get under them.

There is even a burial chamber.

Today the caves are used by natural healers and again we see the flag marking the spot and the dishes for money, food and water for the spirits.

Inside the caves there is a tree and a rock that you can climb to get good views, I leave this to Joseph and Pete.

Then as we start the walk back up to the lodge it starts to rain. To begin with it is a bit on and off but for the last half an hour it pours down. By the time we get back to the lodge we are filthy and completely soaked. Luckily it is not cold.

Joseph has called ahead to the lodge to light a fire to heat some water so we can have a hot shower on our return.

After our shower we have a late lunch. The guys have also lit the fire pit in the dining room so we stay there for a bit.

Mid afternoon Ally our safari guide, arrives back at the lodge with some new guests. We catch up with him and arrange to go out bird watching with him early tomorrow morning. 

This evening we get some nice views from our terrace.

Tonight we have dinner with the couple from South Africa, a guy from Estonia and a family from the Czech Republic. Dinner tonight features beef stew. I think we have had this every night since we arrived but with different accompaniments. I would say that the food and communal areas at the lodge are more like a hostel than a hotel. Tonight there are chips, lentils, cabbage and cucumber salad to go with the stew.  We have a good evening chatting with the others.

Day 54

Today we are up early and down to breakfast at 7. There is a slight delay with breakfast as the lady in the kitchen needs someone to change the gas canister. However pancakes and eggs soon arrive.

We meet Ally just after 7.30 and set out on our walk. We start off along the cliff and then climb back up to the lodge through some agricultural land. We see a few new birds for us. I have included a few photos below. 

Baglafecht Weaver

Malachite Sunbird

Black Saw-Wing

Common Stonechat

Common Waxbill

African  Grey Flycatcher

Streaky Seedeater

As we came to the end of our walk the cloud started rolling in and out, making it harder to see the birds although we still got some clear views from time to time.

At this point I also notice how some people decorate their houses.

We get back about 11 and again, one of the guys at the lodge tells us he has lit the fire so we can have a warm shower so we take advantage of this as although it has been quite cloudy, we have got quite warm on the climb back up to the lodge.

We spend the rest of the afternoon around the lodge. The sun comes out so it is really very pleasant just sat on our terrace. Later we do some packing as tomorrow we are moving to Saadani. 

This evening we have dinner with Sarah and Wes (the South Africans) and the Czech family. Everyone has had a good day. During dinner we arrange that Sarah and Wes will travel with us for part of our journey tomorrow as we are all going the same way.